Travel Guide:Carnival, à la Saint Thomas

April 22nd, 2010 by admin

While all the Carnival parades, dances and street parties were taking place in Brazil, Trinidad and New Orleans, things were completely quiet on the US Virgin Islands. It’s not that the USVI has anything against the often-fleshly pre-Lent celebrations that traditionally take place

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While all the Carnival parades, dances and street parties were taking place in Brazil, Trinidad and New Orleans, things were completely quiet on the US Virgin Islands. It’s not that the USVI has anything against the often fleshly pre-Lent celebrations that traditionally take place in February. They are simply conserving their energy for one of the Caribbean’s largest parties. Saint Thomas, the most populous of the Virgin Islands, celebrates its Carnival in April and early May, with most of the revelry centered in the capitol city of Charlotte Amalie.

The two week-plus event is especially accessible to US residents wanting an authentic Carnival experience. New laws require Americans to carry their passport while heading to any foreign country, even popular Carnival spots in the Caribbean, like Trinidad and Tobago and Jamaica. However, since Saint Thomas, Saint Croix and Saint John are considered territories of the US, no passport is necessary.

The size and length of VI Carnival means that there is more than enough to keep everyone, from toddlers to grandparents, entertained for a solid week. The standard parades and dances are on the calendar, but there are separate versions of each event for kids and adults.

Events kick off officially on April 11th with the announcement of the Prince and Princess of Carnival. However, things don’t really heat up (at least not officially) until a week later.

Lionel Roberts Stadium hosts the majority of Carnival’s main events and acts as the terminus for the parades. Nightly Calypso, Soca (Calypso’s modern incarnation) and Latin music concerts are held here during the first full week of Carnival. For music fans, this week, starting on April 18th this year, is the best time to be on Saint Thomas.

When concerts have concluded at the stadium, the melodies move to Carnival Village, which will host nightly concerts from April 27th through May 2nd. The village, which is set up in a large parking lot, offers a more laid-back feel compared to the stadium shows. Also, there will be multiple booths at the Village serving food.

As with other Carnival celebrations, parades are a major part of the proceedings on USVI. Unlike many other islands, there are plenty of kid-friendly activities associated with Carnival. A parade specifically-designed for children takes place on the day prior to the more adult-oriented Carnival parade. (It will be held April 30th this year.) There will also be an informal pre-teen parade (April 27th) and an evening of games for younger children in the main stadium (April 18th). It is safe to say that this one of the better Carnivals for families. There is even a senior citizens event, allowing the island’s elderly population to join in on the festivities.

Perhaps the most popular event of the entire celebration is J’ouvert, a large mobile music festival. People begin lining up along the street in the pre-dawn hours, with the fun beginning at 4:00 AM on April 29th this year. Some of the revelers simply choose to party through the evening prior. J’ouvert, also called Roas-a-Time in the USVI, is less formal than a parade. For most people, it is more akin to a street party. Bands are transported on the beds of large trucks. Good bands amass a following as they travel the road. People simply become part of the procession, dancing alongside the truck. Vendors serving food and drinks set up their carts along the road, making eating and drinking as much a part of the festivities as the tunes.

The “Adult Parade” takes place on May 1st this year. Despite its name, the proceedings are relatively tame compared to Mardi Gras on Bourbon Street, for example. Yes, there are revealing costumes and plenty of gyrating, but very little that would make it off-limits for younger revelers. Some of the marchers’ ornate costumes (there are numerous groups, similar to Brazil’s Samba schools, but not as formal) are a great reason to attend this parade.

There are also celebrations on the other islands of the USVI. However, the other Carnivals do not occur at the same time of year. Saint Croix’s major party is Crucian Christmas, which takes place over the holiday season. The island of Saint John boasts a carnival that is, in many ways, similar to the Saint Thomas version, only on a smaller scale. This is a good alternative to Saint Thomas for those who can’t fit the April dates onto their calendar or who simply want to avoid the sometimes grossly overcrowded streets and concert venues.

Most people come to Saint Thomas by cruise ship. However, this does not usually allow for the extended stay that is necessary to truly enjoy Carnival. Cyril King Airport hosts flights from US cities. All major legacy carriers offer flights, with most connecting in Miami, Atlanta, Charlotte or San Juan.

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